Melanie Grant, known in the jewelry world as a journalist, author, and curator, adds the role of management to that list. Starting Monday, she will serve as executive director of her Gems Council (R.J.C.) responsible. R.J.C. is a London-based group that describes itself as 'the world's leading sustainability standard-setting organization'.
Founded in 2005 by 14 of the most influential companies in the watch and jewelry industry, including Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and mining giant Rio Tinto, her consortium was founded with an ambitious mission. Chairman of R.J.C. The organization called for the creation of "a global standards body that will monitor, audit and protect all aspects of business practices in the supply chain, from me to retailers, and ultimately protect consumer confidence." His David Buffard, vice president of Signet Jewelers, wrote in his email:
The Council has approximately 1,700 members in 71 countries. Most of them have so-called “certifications,” which require third-party audits to ensure they meet the organization's ethical standards.
Grant, 49, brings a background in photography, art, and journalism to the executive after working for publications such as The Times of Financial, The Guardian, and the BBC. She most recently worked for The Economist, where she joined as a researcher 16 years ago. When she left in December, she oversaw gorgeous articles and photos, news, and feature photography.
She wrote the 2020 publication "Coveted: The Art and Innovation of High Jewelry" by her girlfriend Phaidon, and in 2021 her jewelry exhibition "Brilliant and Black: Jewelry Renaissance". . According to Sotheby's, the designer's first-of-its-kind major auction of her home will follow her second event in September 2022.
Despite her achievements, Grant admitted that she was not specifically selected for positions related to policy, raw materials, or manufacturing. , added that she sees it as an appeal to the category.
Addressing environmental responsibility issues is one of the ways she wants her love to be reflected in her actions. "One of the reasons I'm so excited about her is because she wants to know what she can do." to “simplify” the process that's it. It's about making these practices "more accessible".
Initially, she will work on developing new guidelines for lab-grown materials and will work on "an ambitious international project planned this summer," Buffard writes.
Grant plans to further her work by learning the technical aspects of the business, including mining and cutting gemstones, she said. Supporting women, blacks, browns, and people from lower socioeconomic backgrounds, regardless of location, affiliation or family. Continuing to promote it will be a priority, she said.
While the council's most prominent members are major brands and companies, Grant lobbied independent jewelers to join the board to combat issues such as pollution and climate change. There are practical things you can do as an organization to help you think about how you can contribute. ”
She said she was going to be realistic about her expectations. Old but not fast. The challenge is navigating all opinions and views in the light of the reality of what is possible. ”
In April 2022, the R.J.C. Board voted to accept the decision to suspend Alrosa's membership. It still holds its place today. Pandora did not, but most of the members who left returned to the council, including Richemont.
Ultimately, such friction is inevitable and "healthy," New York-based independent diamond industry analyst Paul Zimnisky said in a telephone interview. It is impossible to reach an agreement in member states that straddle different economic situations, different political ideologies," he said. Of course it's difficult," he said.
Transparency is one of the main benefits groups such as the Council can offer. “We can add value by giving consumers reliable information and letting them make decisions.”
Communication with consumers is also part of Grant's mandate, Buffered writes. "MS.
She admits that writing her review allows her to criticize her work. "I think it's important to have courage," she said. She added, "Looking back, I say I did it. I tried to make a difference. For me, I hope it outweighs the criticism that comes."